We're from Riohacha. We've been running tours in La Guajira for over ten years — through sandstorms, broken axles in the desert, and sunsets at Punta Gallinas that still stop us in our tracks. This is what we know.
History Travelers is a community-based tour operator rooted in Riohacha, La Guajira. We work directly with Wayuú families — no middlemen, no cookie-cutter packages. If you're planning a trip to La Guajira and want to understand what a guided tour actually looks like on the ground, this is the guide for you.
Why you need a guided tour in La Guajira
Where the desert plunges into the Caribbean Sea · Photo: History Travelers
You can't do this on your own — here's why
La Guajira is not like other Colombian destinations. There are no marked roads in the Alta Guajira desert. GPS doesn't work. There are no gas stations, no police, and no phone signals for hours at a time. The tracks to Punta Gallinas change after every rainstorm — only drivers who've done them hundreds of times know the way.
The Wayuú people govern their territory according to their own laws and customs. Arriving without an introduction from a trusted local contact is not just awkward — it can put you in a difficult position. Our drivers are Wayuú. They know every family we visit personally. That relationship is what makes the experience real.
What makes a good La Guajira tour operator
There are dozens of agencies offering “the same tour” in La Guajira. The difference in quality is enormous — and in a desert with no phone signal, that difference matters. Here's what we'd tell you to look for, whether you book with us or anyone else:
Ask if the jeeps belong to the agency or are rented on the day. A breakdown in the Alta Guajira at noon in 40°C heat is not a small problem. Our fleet is ours — we maintain it ourselves.
The track to Punta Gallinas changes after every rain. You need someone who's driven it 300 times — not someone who did it once last season. Our drivers are Wayuú locals who know every kilometer.
Some agencies use third-party rancherías they've never visited. We know every family we work with personally — they've hosted our groups for years. No cold referrals.
You should know exactly what's included: water, meals, type of accommodation (hammock, chinchorro, or bed), and what to expect at each stop. Don't vague promises.
Registered with Fontur Colombia. Traveler's insurance included. Some agencies in La Guajira operate without permits — that's a risk you don't want to take.
Best time to visit La Guajira
Local tip: Book at least 2–3 weeks in advance during high season (December–January and Holy Week). Spots at the Wayuú rancherías in Punta Gallinas fill up fast. Message us on WhatsApp →
What a 3-day La Guajira tour actually looks like
Day by day — honest, from people who've done this thousands of times.
Our 4x4s on the tracks of the Alta Guajira · Photo: History Travelers
Day 0 — Arrive in Riohacha the night before
We always recommend arriving in Riohacha the evening before your tour starts. Departure is early — 6:00 or 7:00 AM — and the drive to Cabo de la Vela takes several hours on unpaved desert tracks. Starting fresh, without the stress of a connecting flight, makes all the difference.
Riohacha has a good selection of hotels. We can recommend options for every budget — just ask when you book.
Riohacha → Cabo de la Vela
The drive from Riohacha to Cabo de la Vela takes around 4 to 5 hours, crossing the Wayuú heartland — flat desert, wind-sculpted dunes, and the occasional goat herd. You'll stop at the Manaure salt flats and the flamingo sanctuary along the way.
Cabo de la Vela is where desert meets Caribbean in its most dramatic form. The afternoon is for the viewpoints: The Lighthouse (the lighthouse) for the best sunset in La Guajira, and Sugar Loaf — a hill that drops directly into the sea. Night in a Wayuú ranchería: hammock, chinchorro, or bed, depending on your preference.
See the Cabo de la Vela tour →
Cabo de la Vela → Punta Gallinas
The most remote stretch of the tour — and the most memorable. The track to Punta Gallinas It is 3 to 4 hours of pure desert driving: dry riverbeds, sand ridges, zero phone signal. This is where having the right driver matters most.
Punta Gallinas is the northernmost point of South America. Here you'll find the Taroa dunes — 40-meter sand dunes that tumble directly into the Caribbean Sea. Sandboarding from the top to the water's edge is one of those moments that stays with you. You'll also visit Bahía Hondita, the remote beaches, and the northern-most lighthouse on the continent. Night in Punta Gallinas ranchería.
See the Alta Guajira full tour →
Punta Gallinas → Macuira National Park → Riohacha
The 4-day tour adds Macuira National Park — our personal favorite in all of La Guajira. Nobody expects to find a cloud forest in the middle of a desert: waterfalls, orchids, endemic birds, and Wayuú legends all in one place. The gateway village is Nazareth. Note: Macuira typically closes August–November — confirm availability when booking.
On the 3-day version, Day 3 is the return drive to Riohacha — long, hot, and worth every hour.
See tours that include Macuira →Staying in a Wayuú ranchería — what to expect
A ranchería is a traditional Wayuú family homestead — part home, part farm, part guesthouse. Don't expect air conditioning or reliable electricity. What you get instead is something harder to find: a real night in the desert, lulled by the wind and the sound of goats, under a sky with more stars than you've probably ever seen.
- Simple hammock — the most common and coolest option. The Caribbean wind does the work of an air conditioner.
- Hammock — the traditional Wayuú hammock: wider, deeper, hand-woven. The most authentic sleep in La Guajira.
- Single bed — available in some rancherías for those who can't sleep in a hammock. Basic but functional.
How we work: We select our Wayuú host families carefully and visit them regularly. When your group arrives, you're welcomed by a family that knows us, trusts us, and knows how to make international visitors feel at home in the desert. No cold referrals, no surprises.
A night in a Wayuu ranchería — the real La Guajira · Photo: History Travelers
What to eatFood in La Guajira — simple, honest, unforgettable
Desert food: simple, honest, and cooked that morning · Photo: History Travelers
Seafood casserole
The dish you must try before leaving La Guajira. Seafood slow-cooked in a clay pot with a creamy sauce of coastal cheese and local herbs — one of the most honest flavors on the Colombian Caribbean. In Riohacha: The Seafood House. In Palomino: 7 Seas.
The friche
The signature dish of Wayuú cuisine: shredded goat meat, boiled then fried, served with yuca, rice, or corn bun. Simple, filling, cooked from the family's own herd. The first time you try it, it will probably surprise you in the best way.
Fish and meat stews (stewed)
Traditional Wayuú cooking relies heavily on stewing. The fish in the Alta Guajira comes from that morning's catch — no supply chain, no cold storage. That's what you taste.
Chirrinche
A fermented sugar cane drink consumed in Wayuú rituals. You won't find it in any store — it'll be offered at dusk at the ranchería. Accept it with respect. It's part of Wayuú hospitality.
For vegetarians: Fresh vegetables are scarce in the desert. Let us know your dietary restrictions when you book — we coordinate alternatives with the host families in advance, but we need to know ahead of time.
How to get to La Guajira
Fly to Riohacha
There are daily flights from Bogotá and Medellín to Riohacha — the only airport in La Guajira, just over an hour in the air. Airlines: Latam and Avianca. If you're only visiting Palomino, you can fly into Santa Marta (2h15 by bus to the village).
Bus from Santa Marta or Cartagena
Regular buses connect Santa Marta to Riohacha (3 hours) and Cartagena to Riohacha (7–8 hours). Companies: Rapid Ochoa, Copetran, Brasilia Express, Unitransco. You can also flag down a bus from the roadside.
Shared taxis
A solid option for the Palomino–Riohacha stretch. Shared jeeps also run to Cabo de la Vela and Punta Gallinas — the cheapest option, but drivers are not always experienced and vehicles not always maintained. Not recommended for the Alta Guajira on your own.
View from Cerro Kamaichi “Sugarloaf” · Photo: Leiner Pinto
Essential tipsWhat to know before you go
Is La Guajira safe?
Generally, Yes. We don't recommend driving alone with a rental car — you can get lost and won't know how to interact with the Wayuú. In the desert there are no police stations: the Wayuú govern their own territory, and that system works.
In over ten years of operation, we have never had a single security incident with any group in the Alta Guajira. Our recommendation: go with a serious local agency.
Packing list for the La Guajira desert
- Light, comfortable clothing — long-sleeve shirts for sun and wind protection, a light sweater for evenings, hat or cap
- Headlamp and power bank — electricity is scarce or nonexistent at night in the rancherías
- Basic medications — Imodium, high-factor sunscreen, insect repellent
- Toilet paper and hand sanitizer — don't take these for granted in the desert
- Cash in small bills — no ATMs in Cabo de la Vela or Punta Gallinas
- Lightweight backpack (30–40L) — no room for large suitcases in the jeep
Bring enough cash
Very few ATMs exist in La Guajira. Draw in Santa Marta before heading to Palomino, and in Riohacha before entering the desert. Bring small bills for Wayuú backpacks and extra purchases.
Be in good shape — and be patient
The desert means long jeep days in demanding conditions. The unexpected is part of it—embrace it. The stories that come out of “when the jeep got stuck at kilometer 80” are the ones people tell for years.
What travelers say4.8 on Google · 1,000+ reviews on TripAdvisor
“Very happy with the agency — they delivered on everything in the itinerary. We're going home very happy. Thank you so much!!”
“Everything with the agency was excellent — well-coordinated itinerary, delicious food, absolutely incredible places. Special mention to our guide Yerri, always there and attentive throughout. Highly recommended.”
“Incredible experience — I learned so much about Wayuú culture and the food was delicious. I strongly recommend this agency. Very complete, comfortable and professional.”
“Everything was wonderful. Our guide was always attentive, the agency delivered on every promise, the food was fantastic and the accommodation was clean and comfortable.”
La Guajira is waiting for you · Photo: History Travelers
